Porto is one of my new favourite European cities. The people are so friendly, the architecture is stunning, and most importantly the food and drink is fantastic.
Portuguese gluten free treats
We were spoilt for choice when I visited with my wife in early May with so many amazing restaurants and bars just outside our hotel. The first place we visited on arriving in the city, was Tasquina do Be to tackle the local delicacy: the francesinha. Layers upon layers of various kinds of pork sandwiched between 2 pieces of white bread, covered in melted cheese, topped with a fried egg and drenched in a tomato soup-like sauce. Just what we needed after the early flight. They also make gluten free versions of this and other dishes here.
We also visited Com Cuore, a cute little modern cafe tucked away a side courtyard near the Sao Bento train station. Everything there is completely gluten free so no worries of cross contamination either. They made such good Pastel de Nata we went back a few times.
Top petiscos
We decided on Taberna do Largo for some lunch, going for the traditional Portuguese tinned sardines and bacalao (salted cod) as well as prawns and roasted chorizo. Because you can never have enough petiscos (Portuguese tapas) we visited Tasco in the evening for some delicious pork.
Secret spots
Miss ‘Opo isn’t easy to find. It’s off a tiny street, there’s a few cars usually parked in front of it, oh and there’s no sign on the restaurant either or menu in the window. It’s well worth it though once you’ve found it as the daily-changing menu is delicious and very reasonable. Another fortunate find was just outside of Porto in nearby Foz (one of the local beaches) where a small Japanese restaurant, Ichiban, serves the most amazing sushi.
Something special
For the night of our wedding anniversary we wanted somewhere really special to mark the occasion: ODE Winehouse, next to the river Duoro. The staff and food were absolutely exceptional, and made what could’ve been a regular meal into a hugely special memory we’ll have forever. We went for the beautiful 6 course tasting menu with the wine pairing and were guided through by the most attentive staff, including the chef himself who came to double check my wife’s gluten intolerance so he could adapt dishes accordingly. When we had finished the meal he came back to check how we’d found it all, and knowing it was our first anniversary, thanked us for choosing to spend it in their restaurant and presented us with a painting his wife had done of the restaurant along with a beautiful message which now has pride of place in our flat in London.
ODE Winehouse for the incredible celebration tasting menu, and this beautiful note and painting of their restaurant to remember the night. Will never forget the unbelievable food & service 🙌 pic.twitter.com/IkX9isrFma
— Dan Papworth Smyth (@dansmythphoto) May 7, 2018
Thirsty work
You can’t really visit Porto without trying the drink that bears its name. We opted for the tour and tasting at Taylor’s, one of the largest Port Houses. I’d only tried port once before but learnt lots during the informative tour and really enjoyed the 2 tasters they provided at the end while sat in their beautiful garden: a white Chip Dry port, which was sweet and refreshing, alongside the LBV or Late Bottled Vintage port which was deliciously smooth.
We’d been tipped off about a great bar called Base in a garden on top of a shopping centre with incredible views and a DJ. Another great bar nearby was The Gin House with their incredible selection of over 160 bottles of gin. We’d stopped by on the night that FC Porto had won the Portuguese football league so the entire city was out and in the streets, right the way through until morning. We opted to try Nao gin, aged in port wine barrels for incredible flavour and colour, and Platu gin from Spain which was a much crisper and more traditional London Dry.
Sweet treats
If you’re after something sweet, and have had your fill of pastel de nata, visit Chocolateria Ecuador – an artisan chocolate producer with a couple of shops in the city. Their amazing flavour combinations and gorgeous packaging are well worth checking out. We also went to Cremosi for refreshing gelato (lime, ginger and mint – basically a mojito!) and were taken to an incredible back street bakery by Sergio, our Porto Walkers guide, who make the most chocolatey cakes and mousses.
