Panzano, a small unassuming hilltop town in the Chianti region of Tuscany, was propelled onto the world stage (and my attention) in early 2019 when Netflix released season six of my favourite show: Chef’s Table. Episode two was centred around a charismatic butcher called Dario Cecchini (not pictured) and his restaurants Officina della Bistecca, Solosicca and Dario Doc.
He’s one of the most famous butchers in the world and takes great pride in his respect for the animals, using everything nose to tail, in the best possible way using traditional Tuscan techniques. He’d already featured on shows such as the late Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations, BBC 4’s The Food Programme, Top Chef, in a Jamie Oliver book, and more.
“Every time that I’m in front of the animal’s death, I think of the life, of the respect, of the responsibility of using everything well… of not offending this death. Not even a small bone will go wasted. That is being a butcher.”
Dario Cecchini, taken from Netflix’s Chef’s Table
While staying near Florence, we travelled south to join one of the four daily sittings at Officina della Bistecca (two lunch, two dinner). Sat in the upstairs dining room, we were placed right by the fire and carving block – what would become the ‘stage’ in the most incredible performance of a meal.
On our table was a bag of soft white bread and a bowl of raw vegetables (carrots, celery, fennel and onions) to be dipped into extra virgin olive oil and salt. Not only that but a huge 2ltr bottle of Chianti Classico to work our way through during the meal.
We were going to be enjoying some of the finest beef, taken from five different cuts of meat. To start things off, staff wearing T-shirts which said ‘Carne Diem’ carried around platters of beef tartare (or Chianti Sushi as they call it) with lemon. It was so smooth and creamy, like butter. I was really surprised how much I enjoyed it, having not had much experience with raw beef before.
The second of the meaty courses was rump beef carpaccio, hand sliced into very delicate thin strips having been barely seared along the edges. It just melted in your mouth.
The steaks
Then it was time for the steak – three different cuts, all very simply cooked rare – just meat and fire on an open flame. Each then carved up into one inch chunks before being lightly seasoned and served at our tables.
“I’m not a cook; I’m a butcher that cooks. It’s extremely simple: At the start, drink a glass of red wine. This inspires better cooking. And then, forget every grill technique. Finally, rely on instinct. Take a Florentine steak or the boneless sirloin. Eight minutes per side. Each side without salt, without oil. Meat and fire. Think of the origin. It’s all about simple things, done with pleasure. This is important.”
Dario Cecchini, taken from Netflix’s Chef’s Table
The first of these three steaks was also probably my favourite, the Costata alla Fiorentina. Rich and full of flavour, but also not chewy at all. The almost equally delicious Bistecca Panzanese was next. It was incredible to taste the difference that the cut of beef made to the texture of these steaks which were all hugely flavoursome and delicious.
Dario Cecchini mostly works in the butchery itself beneath the restaurant but popped up during our meal to a rapturous reception. He’s a real showman, but it’s all the more incredible when you consider he started life wanting to be a vet. His huge personality filled the room immediately and came in posting for selfies and shaking hands along the way (good firm grip as you might expect!) before catching up with the team serving us in the restaurant.
The steak finale had to be the Bistecca Fiorentina, the main event, the famous T-bone cut that helped bring Dario fame around the world. Following the mad cow outbreak in 2001, the sale of these cuts was banned by Italian officials. Being as important as they are to the local area and to the people of Tuscany, Dario decided to host a funeral for the cut and auction off his last pieces. Apparently Elton John bought one of Dario’s last steaks at the time for £2,500!
Alongside all this meat, we were presented with baked potatoes wrapped in foil from where they had been sat on the fire, and a bowl of simple but delicious beans in olive oil and garlic. Just when you thought you’d have a break from meaty flavours, the ‘chianti butter’ arrives for the potatoes – a glass of lard to melt over them (so much more delicious than it sounds).
Dessert
That wasn’t all though, to finish we were given a plate of beautiful and light olive oil sponge cake and then the typical Italian post-meal coffee (espresso) and their homemade grappa.
The noise, the atmosphere, the flavours, the heat from the roaring fire, it was an incredible event (so much more than just a meal) that I’ll never forget. Make sure you book ahead and get yourself a seat at the best festival of meat there is.
If you haven’t already seen Dario’s episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix, you can watch it here or see the trailer below.